The Ultimate Itinerary: Madagascar in 3 Weeks

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To experience Madagascar is truly something you want to check off your bucket list. It is almost 600.000 km2 of breathtaking nature, an outrageous amount of endemic species, incredible beaches, and rich local culture. I know what you’re thinking; with 600.000 km2 to cover, where do I start?! Well, you clicked on this blog post, so you’ve already taken the first step toward your next big adventure. Next up, we’ll take a look at how to get the most out of Madagascar in 3 weeks of vacation!

Truth be told, 3 weeks in Madagascar is not enough to cover the island. I’ve traveled there several times, and I’ve only seen a fraction. But three weeks are enough to cover the unforgettable essentials. In this post, you’ll find my recommendations for how you make the most of Madagascar in just three weeks of vacation. 

(Full disclosure, this is not going to be the cheapest way to visit Madagascar, but it is the most efficient for those of you who want to see as much as possible). Let’s dive in!

Day 1: Travel Day

Depending on where you’re from, this is a more or less extensive travel day taking you from home to the capital of Madagascar, Antananarivo. The airport is rather small and quick to get through, but the visa line can take a while. You can order a tourist visa online in advance, or get it at the airport – there’s no difference in which option you choose. You can’t pay for it online, so there’s no way to skip the line. Welcome to Madagascar!

From the airport, you can take a taxi to your hotel. However, I’d have your travel agency or hotel arrange a transfer. That’ll give you more peace to study the city on the way. 

Day 2 & 3: Antananarivo

You’ve reached the capital of Madagascar, Antananarivo. The first recommendation is to simply call it ”Tana”. Antananarivo means ”a thousand warriors” and goes all the way back to the first king of the Merina tribe. But it is long and hard to pronounce. ”Tana” is what the capital goes by in the daily communication of the Malagasy, so you might as well do as the Romans and save yourself a few syllables.

Antananarivo will be your first encounter with Madagascar, and word from the wise; do not let it scare you off. The capital is not for everyone, and few people find a need to stay for more than a day or two. One sight is especially recommendable. Anyone visiting Madagascar should consider visiting Ambohimanga. 

Ambohimanga is a palace located on a hill on the outskirts of Tana. It was used by the royal family hundreds of years ago and is the center of many histories sacred to the Malagasy people today. Listening to the stories of the former kings and queens and visiting the holy tombs will give you a great foundation to understand the particular cultural identity you meet in the Malagasy people during your travel.

Spending a few days visiting the city center will also provide a close-up experience of how the Madagascan way of life differs from the Western world. While Antananarivo is probably the only place in the country where you will find what resembles modern shops, there are only a few. Instead, the streets are full of markets, shops selling used clothes (recycling, yay!), and handicraft shops.

While plenty of restaurants decorate the street view, you rarely find Malagasy people in them. Those are built for foreigners or the top few percent of the country, which does reflect in the food. If looking for a local experience, you should go to a Hotely instead. A Hotely is not a hotel, but the Malagasy word for a small restaurant. The facilities are far from what you know at home, but the food is often quite good. Bring a few wet wipes, hand sanitizer and use the toilet at your hotel before leaving – then you’ll have a wonderful experience surrounded by locals. 

Day 4: National Flight to Morondava

It’s time to visit the west, one of my (many) favorite parts of Madagascar. Take a national flight from Tana to Morondava, and in about an hour and a half, you’re in a different world. Morondava’s vibe is completely different from Antananarivo’s. Hold that thought though. You might have time for a short visit to the main street, but otherwise, you must drive straight from the airport to the area of the Kirindi forest. 

Driving in Madagascar is not for sore souls, and I will highly recommend you book a car and driver. First of all, because roads are non-existing in rural areas. Instead, you have long paths of offroad driving topped off with a huge amount of livestock and people walking the same paths as you’re driving. Secondly, because the scenery is spectacular. Driving in Madagascar’s different regions is one of the grandest experiences you can treat yourself to. And thirdly, a driver can be your spring of wisdom to the Malagasy way of life. 

By the time you get to Kirindi (about a 4 hours drive), you have a few hours before it gets dark. Spend them visiting a local village or relaxing at your lodge. After dark is the perfect opportunity for a night walk in the park. 

Day 5: Visiting Kirindi Forest

Kirindi Forest will be your first visit to a Madagascan reserve. It is a dry forest, which means that, apart from the rainy season, it resembles the forests you find in the north of Europe and America. Plus/minus a few thousand endemic species of flora and fauna, of course.

Kirindi Forest is a spectacular place to visit for lemur enthusiasts. It is home to nine different species of lemurs, including the sifaka and the brown lemur. Both of which tend to be big crowd-pleasers. Furthermore, it is known as the best place to spot the Fossa. If lemurs are not your passion, fear not. There are plenty of animal species visible in this area. Both when it comes to reptiles, birds, and weirdly looking insects. 

After visiting the reserve, it’s time to head to Morondava for the most Instagram-worthy experience of your travel; the sundown at Baobab Avenue. Now, this experience is hard to put down in writing. I’ll use the grandest word I know: awe-inspiring. One of those experiences where the real deal exceeds the numerous photoshopped pictures online. 

Day 6: Long Drive to Antsirabe

Now this one is a travel day. It contains one hell of a drive. From the west coast, you head back to the central highlands to one of the most fascinating cities in the country. It takes 10 hours straight – maybe even more if the road conditions are worse than usual. But do not worry. The drive is an adventure in itself. You pass breathtaking viewpoints, local villages, and several kinds of climate zones. Driving is one of the best ways to discover the diverse culture in Madagascar. It is truly an experience. And not to mention the destination. Antsirabe is definitely worth it. 

Antsirabe is the craftsmen capital of Madagascar, and it is famous for its many rickshaws. It’s a colorful city in which colonial buildings stand side by side with traditional Malagasy houses. Furthermore, it is the perfect place to see Malagasy art, woodwork, crafts made of zebu horn, and many other impressive creatives. Apart from crafts, Antsirabe is known for farming. When driving through the outskirts, you can see the very unique way they grow their crops. Since the city is located at an altitude of 1500 meters, many areas are quite steep. That’s not a problem for the Malagasy farmer, who will build his fields on mountain plateaus. The view of fields presenting like colorful stairs in a mountain landscape is astonishing.  

After hours of driving, you arrive in Antsirabe late in the day. Spend the evening freshening up and enjoying a nice dinner. Tomorrow you’ll have the chance to experience the city and the crafts.  

Day 7: Antsirabe —> Ranomafana

Today is the day you fall in love with Antsirabe and Malagasy culture. Wake up early, go on a city tour, and perhaps take a rickshaw ride. After just an hour, you’ve been fed with so many new impressions, that you might be inclined to call it a day. Don’t. This is the best place during your trip to explore the Malagasy crafts. Visit the zebu-horn factory, the silk factory, or maybe even the stonework factory. You’ll be amazed at what the population can do with little raw material and relatively simple processes. Plus, if you want to bring home souvenirs, these are the places to get them. 

When you’re done exploring the city, it’s time to get back in the car. Preferably during the early afternoon, if you want to make room for a stop at a waterfall and go on a night walk in Ranomafana, which is your next stop. 

Ranomafana is a national park located southeast of Tana. It’s a genuine rainforest with lianas, green exotic plants (the ones we in the Western world buy for our houses), and plenty of rain. Bring a rain suit for the walks! Furthermore, the entrance is not far from a small town with a riveting local market, several recommendable restaurants, and a natural swimming pool. In the national park, you might get the chance to see a few varieties of Bamboo Lemur, including the critically endangered Greater Bamboo Lemur. It is also the perfect place to spot chameleons in various shapes, sizes, and species. 

Day 8: Ranomafana National Park

Ranomafana and the small town close to it is the only thing on the agenda today. After breakfast, put on your best walking shoes and a rain suit. Today will be a moderately sturdy hike in a wet area. In the national park, you hire a guide (mandatory) and start the hike. You’ll experience several kinds of lemurs, amphibians, plants, insects, and birds. Most of which do not exist anywhere else than in Madagascar. 

The hike is a few hours. Afterward, go to the small town for lunch. If you’re brave enough, eat at a locally owned hotely. Buying lunch there supports the local environment a great deal. If not, there are several more modern restaurants too.

After lunch, you have plenty of time to visit the local market, walk in the city, and visit the natural swimming pool. And during the evening, you have time to relax. You won’t be on the road again until tomorrow. Enjoy!  

Day 9: Anja Park & Drive to Ranohira

Setting a course towards Isalo National Park, which you should look forward to like a baby! The drive is again a bit long, so stop in Anja Park. Anja Park is the best place to spot the ringtailed lemur (King Julien). There are quite a few larger families in the park, so I’m almost ready to guarantee you an up-close look at them. 

Anja Park is community-run. The local village earns a living by attending the park within the national guidelines. It’s a good place to support, and the park is small so you won’t spend too much time there. The ringtailed lemur is not a fan of the cold. That’s why you often see them in a meditative position enjoying the sun. An entertaining view. The earlier in the day you get there, the better the chances of seeing the pose.

After Anja Park, you continue to Ranohira, an area around Isalo. Isalo is a hard trail, so night walks rarely make sense here. Check in to your lodge and enjoy the rest of the evening with a local beer or two. Though, not too many. Tomorrow’s hike is tough!

Day 10: Hiking in Isalo National Park

You’ve arrived in one of the most beautiful places in Madagascar. Isalo National Park is a landscape of giant stone formations carved out from years and years of water erosion in the past. That has resulted in a very unique ecosystem. 

You will again need a guide, with whom you begin the trail. The guide is likely to be Bara, a Malagasy tribe whose history has always been intertwined with Isalo. The stone formations are a big part of their culture and customs. You’ll learn plenty about their culture and their fascinating burial tradition, which in the past all happened on the rocks. 

At the beginning of your trail, you move upwards on the stone formations. The fauna is limited to hardy plants, several of which are endemic to Isalo. While the landscape may seem very gold, you’d be surprised how many organisms live there. Silkworms, scorpions, and colophons, to name a few. This part of the trip is a big contrast to what you are about to experience. 

When walking on the stone formations, steep cliff walls suddenly appear in the ground. Make your way to the bottom, and find exotic oases with natural springs, white sand, and palms. Mindblowingly so. There are quite a few of them, so bring your swimsuit. Besides these oases’, the rocks invite you to experience several canyons in which you’ll be stepping right into a rainforest between the rocks. The ecosystem contrasts in Isalo are marvelous.

On the hike, is a lunch spot. If you order the guide in advance, you can book a lunch prepared outside on the fireplace in that exact spot. I highly recommend you do so. It costs you close to nothing, and it’s a great experience. What makes it even better is that the smart ringtailed lemurs have long ago figured out that it’s a food spot. They know how much we care for them, so they are not at all afraid to try to steal from your plate. It’s not good for them, so do what you can to avoid it, while enjoying the intimate encounters. 

Before you plan your trip, there’s one thing you should make sure to make room for. The sunrise and sunset over the landscape. Depending on which hotel you choose, make sure to set aside time either in the morning or evening for this experience. It’s gorgeous. 

Day 11: Tulear & Ifaty

From Isalo you drive to Tulear. Tulear is one of the bigger cities in the country. It’s basically the capital of the southwest and offers a rich cultural life. Ifaty, your end-destination for the day, is not too far away, so take your time in the city. Go to a market, and eat at one of the many good restaurants. The city is a center for trade in the area, which you’ll notice by the tempo on the streets. Everything is moving at a faster pace than you’ve experienced since Antsirabe. Enjoy the urban vibe. It’s your last city tour on this vacation.

When you’re done exploring the city, drive to Ifaty. It takes less than an hour. Here you check in to your beach lodge just in time to enjoy the sunset and start relaxing. 

Day 12 & 13: Enjoy Ifaty

Ifaty is an ideal area for water enthusiasts. If you’re into diving, a 450 km reef is welcoming you. And for those learning to dive, several small reefs close to the coast. There are a few diving centers, including a Padi-certified one owned by an American. And for those into snorkeling, waterskiing, paragliding, or other water activities, you’ll find plenty of options too. Go for it. 

For the ones of you who haven’t had enough of Madagascar’s nature, a new experience is calling. A spiny forest. It is much unlike the dry forest, the rainforest, and the desert, which you’ve experienced so far. Another nature experience for everyone visiting in June or July is whale watching. Every summer Humpback Whales swim from Antarctica to mate in the waters around Madagascar. Watching these majestic creatures play in the water is quite an event. 

If you are not water-lion and have had enough of nature, take the time to relax on the beach, read a good book, listen to podcasts, or whatever turns you into a happy hippo. This is the first time you have had the time to do nothing on your trip. And remember, Ifaty is on the west coast and the climate is dry. That adds up to the most beautiful sunsets over the water. Enjoy! 

Day 14: National Flights to Sainte Marie

You’ve spent a few days relaxing in a dry desert climate, and now you’re off to do the same in a tropical climate. You’re heading towards Sainte Marie. Tulear and Sainte Marie are on the opposite side of the country. To get there quickly you need two national flights. Now, that might seem like a lot but don’t worry. The flights are about an hour each, and if timed well, you go more or less directly.

Your first flight is from Tulear Airport to Tana. The next is from Tana to Sainte Marie. When you reach Sainte Marie, you are picked up by the hotel you are staying at (remember to let them know to pick you up). Hotels at Sainte Marie will send a driver and car. When staying at Ile aux Nattes, you are picked up by boat and sailed to the hotel. Going to Ile aux Nattes and feeling adventurous? Take a tuk-tuk from the airport to the southern point of Sainte Marie (about 10 minutes or 1 km away) and go by pirogue from the point. 

When you get to your hotel it’s time to enjoy life in the most beautiful setting of all. Sainte Marie and Ile aux Nattes are two small tropical islands that encourage a very low tempo in their visitors. Keep reading!

Day 15-19: Experience the Wonder of Sainte Marie & Ile aux Nattes

You now have five days to experience Sainte Marie and Ile aux Nattes. And believe me, it’s not enough! Even though it’s a minor area of Madagascar, it has a lot to offer its tourists. 

First of all, nature. The islands are just beautiful. It’s a rainforest area, so the islands are stocked with stunning plants and flowers, including orchids which are growing wild everywhere. Animal wildlife is also worth noticing. There are lemurs, chameleons, amphibians, weirdly-looking insects, and more. Just as you’ll find them in the national parks, just blended into everyday life. Especially on Ile aux Nattes, which has no roads and in general, is impressively undeveloped, you can encounter wildlife in a close manner. The north of Sainte Marie is at a higher plateau, which results in beautiful waterfalls, astounding views, and slightly different vegetation than you’ll find in the south of the island. And let’s not forget the beaches. 

The beaches in this area are stunning. Blue lagoons with wide sand beaches are more the rule than the exception. And it is impossible to take a picture without a coconut tree interfering. Both islands are surrounded by a double coral barrier, which is not just good news for the divers and snorkellers out there, but also promises a very safe environment. There are no sharks, no deep waters, and no dangerous currents within the barrier. It’s a great place to indulge in watersports, and furthermore, it’s the perfect place to bring your kids. 

There are plenty of sights you should experience when you’re staying in Sainte Marie, and plenty of good bars and restaurants to put the icing on the top of your stay. If you haven’t yet so far, make sure to meet the locals. The people on these islands are calm, friendly, and very accommodating. While there’s never crowded with tourists, the area is more used to visitors than the majority of the country. You’ll quickly notice that by the quality of the local businesses, and the ability to communicate slightly in English. Enjoy being invited into the lives of the locals, and feel free to be relaxed about it. Sainte Marie and Ile aux Nattes is a small community and a very safe place to indulge in Malagasy culture. 

Be warned, five days move quickly here. It’s your last vacation days, so make the most of them! 

Ps. Make sure to read 7 Places to Experience When Staying at Ile aux Nattes

Day 20: Back to Tana

This is the hardest day of your trip. Getting up, packing your stuff, sailing or driving to the airport, and leaving paradise. Your trip is almost done, and all you have left is a single night in Tana until your international flight takes you home. 

The flight to Tana takes about an hour, and when you get there, there’s one night left to buy the last souvenirs and soak up the feel of your adventures. I like to spend the last evening of my vacation having a nice dinner while commemorating the massive load of impressions and experiences. But, of course, it’s totally understandable and okay to spend the evening crying your eyes out instead. Who can blame you when leaving an adventure like this? 

Day 21: Travel Day

You take the flight from Tana to whatever your flight schedule tells you, and hereby your Madagascan adventure has come to an end. 

Ready to go?

There are many ways to travel in Madagascar and so many things to see. This is just one option. The best tip I can give you is to consult with a travel agency and have them plan your trip for you. Madagascar is, in my opinion, one of the most magical places on earth. But the lack of infrastructure makes creating plans and sticking to timelines quite difficult – especially for those of us used to living in a well-oiled clock. Having a travel agency plan your trip, is the only way to make sure that you’ll get to see everything you want. When that’s said, if you like traveling without a clock and just go with the flow, you’ll be just fine in Madagascar on your own.

Nothing left to say. Get going!